In Murano, a charming osteria where a refined cuisine, which looks to the Venice lagoon tradition, meets the craftsmanship of NasonMoretti, the artistic glasswork protagonist of the most elegant mises en place in the world.
To grasp the true essence of Murano, an island in the Venice Lagoon guardian of a glass art unique in the world, there could not be a better union than that between Giovanna Arcangeli, an expert in the rituals of hospitality refined at the court of Harry’s Bar in Arrigo Cipriani, and Caterina Nason, architect and passionate cook, of the famous company of master glassmakers NasonMoretti.
The two friends and sister-in-law, Giovanna is the wife of Piero Nason, the third generation of the family-run business since its foundation in 1923, had, in fact, decided to open their first restaurant in 2012 to pursue their passions and create the Buen Retiro of their dreams.
Acquastanca is home to us, a place to make our families and friends feel good by handing down the gastronomic and cultural tradition of Murano.
(Giovanna e Caterina, owners)
Acquastanca (literally “tired water”) in marine vocabulary means, in fact, “point of the tide that is between the ebb and flow, or between this and that in which the seawater has no motion”; a metaphor to define a place where you can relax and enjoy good food according to the slow rhythms of the lagoon.
As a location they chose an old bakery in the very central Fondamenta Manin, the main promenade of the island, renovated by Caterina, preserving all the valuable details of the old shop, such as the marble walls and wooden beams. The decor was then completed over the years with objects inspired by the local tradition of the island such as the wonderful wooden wall at the back of the room covered with Barbini mirrors or the wooden fish sculpture.
Obviously, the protagonists of the mise en place of the restaurant are the glasses of the Idra NasonMoretti line, a refined artistic Murano glass factory, the only one to keep the secret of the creation of some colors, a characteristic that has earned it the collaboration with the main fashion and design houses at the world.
In the kitchen, Caterina, a passionate self-taught cook, proposes traditional lagoon recipes revisited with grace and love for different cultures characterized by great lightness and short cooking. A trait that makes her particularly appreciate the quality of the fish, which arrives fresh on the boat every morning, and the vegetables that she loves sautéing at the moment, from the Sant’Erasmo artichokes to the Creazzo fiolaro broccoli from small farms.
The desserts, for which Caterina has a special love, deserve a special mention, from those of tradition, such as tiramisù and zabaglione cream with homemade biscuits, to recipes of more difficult executive techniques such as the excellent lemon meringue cake.
The attention to the “small” and natural also extends to the wine list which includes selected labels, especially whites, coming mainly from the regions of Northern Italy such as Edi Keber from Collio, Girlan of Trentino, Prosecco of Vettori and Ca’ Orologio from Valpolicella.
After lunch, you can continue to discover the most authentic Murano by booking a visit to the new NasonMoretti company museum to admire 100 years of history told through dozens of objects for the table and the home created by the many designers who have collaborated with the famous brand (while if you want to buy them, the single-brand shop is right next to the Osteria).
A few years ago Anna Fendi, creator of the Casa di Fendi line and lover of the NasonMoretti brand, fell so in love with the Barbini mirror wall during a lunch at the Osteria that she bought them and took them all home.