Opened in Venice in 2013, CoVino, a small theater bistro on Calle del Pestrin near the Arsenale, remains a unique concept in the lagoon landscape that combines the atmosphere of a traditional "bacaro" with that of a gourmet show cooking.
With only 20 square meters and 7, highly sought after, tables, the young gourmand restaurateur Andrea Lorenzon – son of Mauro Lorenzon, the famous host of La Mascareta and inventor of the “Enoiteca” format – has been able to create a small osteria that amuses not only the palate but even to the eye.
The close-knit kitchen brigade alternates, in fact, without hierarchies but as a single team, in the open kitchen, giving life to tasty dishes prepared express in front of the guests that Andrea, Anna and Giorgia serve in the dining room entertaining the “spectators” with passionate stories about ingredients and advice on wine pairings.
We go on stage every day with the same love and passion, to offer our guests the best of lagoon warmth and hospitality.
(Andrea Lorenzon, owner)
Andrea takes obsessive care in choosing the raw material, preferring small artisan suppliers, such as the ancient grain bread prepared with mother yeast from the Anticamente bakery in Sacile, the buffalo butter from Casa Madaio, or the very fresh fish that the fisherman and friend Marco Bergamasco sends directly from the Tronchetto market, also supporting local projects aimed at safeguarding the environment and the lagoon habitat. Like Osti in Orto, an initiative in which 15 Venetian restaurants came together to cultivate a plot of land on the island of Sant’Erasmo, nicknamed the vegetable garden of Venice.
What is not found locally, especially meats, is selected from Slow Food presidia from all over Italy such as Piedmontese beef, Saluzzo chicken or Sambucano lamb.
The menu, therefore, varies often according to the season and includes recipes with healthy and quick but never banal cooking such as the Mullet with pumpkin, endive and bottarga or the Gentle Adriatic sole, grilled Chinese cabbage, crispy Maranello polenta, and sweet and sour Montoro onion with pine nuts and Corinth raisins.
The original wine list, selected, or rather “collected”, by Andrea, a passionate sommelier, has over 100 labels, mostly from small Venetian producers such as the natural Prosecco that Mauro Lorenzon produces on the hills of Valdobbiadene for a few, selected friends.
Once seated at Covino, it will be difficult to leave the table as what you breathe is, first of all, the atmosphere of family parties and, just like in the best families, here you are truly spoiled. Suffice it to mention the grand finale: dark chocolate crumble, mascarpone cheese, salted caramel and pecan nuts paired with Erbaluna’s Barolo Chinato to conclude with homemade biscuits baked by Andrea’s mother and coffee from Trinci of Pisa artisan roaster served in traditional small glasses.
Symbol of the CoVino, the abat-jour lamp made with a bottle of Laurent-Perrier Champagne comes from the legendary Caneva di Jesolo, a place opened by Mauro Lorenzon who made the history of drinking in the Veneto with its innovative format open until 4 am, and was jealously guarded by Andrea just to be placed in his first restaurant.
Main course + Dessert or Tasting of cheese or Coffee and liqueur: 30 euro
Appetizer / First course + Main course + Dessert or Tasting of cheese or Coffee and liqueur: 42 euro
Four-course tasting menu: 47 euro
Wine pairing: 18 euro