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Antiche Carampane

The finest Venetian fish cuisine since 1983

by Lavinia Colonna Preti
Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets

In the heart of Venice, the Antiche Carampane restaurant is one of the bastions of lagoon tradition, managed since 1983 by the same family and renowned, in addition to its cuisine, for the collection of mirrors that cover its walls and the unusual logo, symbol of the curious history of the neighborhood.

Archive sources testify that centuries ago, in the building that now houses the restaurant, there was an inn that offered simple meals to the frequenters of what was one of the first red-light districts in the world.

The Serenissima, as we know, was a pioneer in many aspects of social life, including regulating the areas where prostitutes could practice their profession. For this purpose, a secluded area near Rialto was identified, in particular in some buildings left vacant by the wealthy Rampani family, which had died out in the meantime.

Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets
Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets

Since 1358 it was prescribed that each Venice district had to find a place in Rialto to concentrate the prostitutes. The inhabitants spread, over time, in the neighborhood called «Carampane» from «Ca’» and «Rampani», the surname of an ancient patrician family.

(Giuseppe Tassini, Venetian curiosities, or the origin of the names of the streets of Venice, 1887)

From the union of the words Ca’ (house) and Rampani the term “carampane” was created, which indicated the prostitutes who worked in the area, then over time became synonymous with old and folkloristic ladies in the Venetian dialect.

The history of the restaurant began in 1983 when Giovanni Battista Bortoluzzi, known as “Nani”, was fascinated by the atmosphere of the modest tavern “Antiche Carampane” and, driven by a great passion for cooking passed down to him by his parents, convinced the family to take over the place.

Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets
Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets

In 1999, her sister Piera took over the reins from her brother, adding a good dose of feminine refinement to the dishes and the restaurant, where she began to bring part of her thirty-year collection of mirrors to enjoy in her workplace.

In 2004, she was joined by her son Francesco Agopyan who, together with a close-knit and very friendly team, now manages the restaurant, always faithful to the local culinary tradition, strengthening at most its reputation as a refined, yet authentic, restaurant.

Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets
Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets

The dishes of Antiche Carampane are, in fact, still based on the recipes of Nani and Piera, with a touch of contemporaneity added by the current chefs. Unmissable among the appetizers are the Raw Fish Carpaccio, the Grilled Octopus or the Creamed Cod with Crispy Polenta Chips, while among the pasta courses the house specialty is the Spaghetti in “Cassopipa” with lightly spiced seafood and, among the second courses, the Mixed Fried Fish of the Carampane and the Cuttlefish in black sauce with soft polenta Bianco Perla Presidio Slow Food.

The fresh raw materials are selected and purchased by Francesco and his team every morning at the nearby Rialto Market. A place that Francesco is particularly fond of because seventy years ago his grandfather ran a fish stall there, from which his profound knowledge of fish products was born.

Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets

As for the vegetable part, Antiche Carampane have joined Osti in orto becoming members, like other excellent restaurateurs, of a farm based in Sant’Erasmo, the island known as “Venice’s vegetable garden”.

The wine list has about 500 labels, mainly Italian, with a special passion for small producers who observe natural vineyard cultivation methods.

Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets
Antiche Carampane (VE) — Veneto Secrets

The Antiche Carampane is one of the few authentic places in Venice where you can find yourself sitting side by side with an international movie star and a group of old local “carampane” (ladies).

The Secret

The Venetian Matteo Bertelli, painter, set designer and illustrator, is the author of the beautiful logo of the Antiche Carampane which depicts a stylised woman showing off her uncovered curves, just like prostitutes did in the times of the Serenissima, also influencing the toponymy (see the nearby Ponte delle Tette, the “Boobs Bridge).

Useful Info

Antiche Carampane
San Polo 1911
30125 Venezia
Tel. +39 041 5240165

Starters: from 30 euro
First courses: from 24 euro
Second courses: from 30 euro

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