Ai Mercanti (VE)

by Lavinia Colonna Preti
Ai Mercanti (VE) — Veneto Secrets

Ai Mercanti is a small hidden jewel near Piazza San Marco that mixes the atmosphere of a refined bistro with the best, and therefore rare, Venetian food and wine tradition, pioneer of a peasant cuisine that mixes local ingredients with great creative research.

Opened in 1980 near the Rialto market, to which it owes its name, by chef Nadia Locatello, together with her husband Diego, in 1996 Ai Mercanti moves to the small calle dei Fuseri near San Marco, elevating its offer to haute cuisine. 2013 marks a new turning point thanks to the international vision brought by their son Simone with his wife Ania who, inspired by the concept of the French “bistronomy” – from bistro and gastronomy – turned the place into a gastro-osteria, very unique in Venetian panorama both for the quality offer and the intelligent pricing of the menu.

The romantic atmosphere of the restaurant is underlined by soft lighting and exquisitely jazzy details, Simone’s great passion, such as the striking Catellani & Smith wall lamps covered in gold leaf, the silver candelabra, and the Bang and Olufsen stereo that spreads pieces by sought-after contemporary performers such as Josè James and Cécile McLorin Salvant.

Ai Mercanti (VE) — Veneto Secrets

The menu, which changes every three months, offers recipes based on a careful selection of the raw material based on “poor” ingredients of the Venetian tradition with an essential mise en place that contrasts with the refined construction of the dishes. Among the signature dishes, the crunchy egg with potato mousse and Cantabrian anchovies; spaghetti with garlic, oil and chilli pepper on parmesan fondue; and second courses based on fish from the Venetian lagoon, like sea bream and cucumber with gin or mullet with artichokes and coffee caramel. Bread, breadsticks, pasta, and desserts are all homemade with a special mention for the chocolate variation, an apotheosis of different varieties and textures of chocolate.

The passion for things done well, without compromise, also extends to the wine list which offers small labels from all over Italy that Simone, sommelier (like his mother and his wife) loves to recommend after understanding the taste of his guests and serving also at the bar, happy to entertain friends in his restaurant.

In winter, ask for a table in the first room on the left, while in summer you can dine in the small Corte Coppo in front of the restaurant.

The Secret

Calle Fuseri, where Ai Mercanti is located today, is one of the oldest streets in Venice, once home to manufacturers of spindles, from which it takes its name, and other tools for fabric processing. In the small Corte Coppo there is, in fact, a 14th century well in Verona marble, one of the first built in the lagoon city starting from 1322 of which today about 600 remain.

Useful Info

Ai Mercanti
Calle dei Fuseri 4346/a
30011 Venezia
Tel. +39 041 5238269

Starters: 13 — 14 euro
First courses: 11 — 15 euro
Second courses: 15 — 19 euro

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